Who Runs the Fashion World … Girls!

From the Godfathers of fashion such as Charles Fredrick Worth and Christian Dior, to modern male fashion creative such as Marc Jacobs and Alexander McQueen, fashion is an industry that men have largely populated and been running for decades. Even though their clientele is dominated by women of all shapes, sizes and backgrounds, the inside of the fashion world has been operating with male directors at the helm for many eras. But slowly women have started to take the reins, and are making their mark on the runway. You only have to look at the recent shows form Chanel and Dior, to see that these women who have been behind the scenes for many years, have finally the opportunity to run it their way, and what magnificent results we have seen. When watching the Haute Couture show of Fall/Winter 2019/20 by Chanel, I sat in awe at not only the genius of the location and set, but the fashion itself was possibly the greatest I had seen. This show pushed me to research the woman who now sits at the helm, and so that is what this blog shall endeavour to uncover.

The recent passing of the master of fashion Mr Karl Lagerfeld, as tragic as it was, left the door open for his right hand assistant to step into the limelight. Having worked alongside Lagerfeld for more than thirty years, Virginie Viard had slowly been stepping out form the shadows in recent times. Only days after the great man passed away in February this year, Chanel announced that Viard would take over as Creative Director. Born in Lyon, France in 1962, Viard grew up with fashion in her veins. Her grandparents were silk merchants, and Viard went on to study theatre design at the Cours George. At completion of her studies, Viard gained employment as an assistant costume designers for Dominique Borg. Then in 1987, Viard began an internship at Chanel, and as they say, the rest is history! Forming a close relationship with Lagerfeld, the two worked well together, and when Lagerfeld left Chanel to join Chloe (for the second time) in 1992, Viard went with him. Then in 1997, the pair returned to Chanel, with Lagerfeld heading up the Couture end of the business. In 2000, Viard became the creative director of the studio, and oversaw Ready to Wear, Haute Couture and accessories alongside Lagerfeld. Lagerfeld himself described this talented woman as not only being his right hand, but his left hand too! The pair were inseparable for over thirty years in the fashion world.

With her signature punkish look of dark kohl rimmed eyes, solid bangs and all black wardrobe, Viard manages to create a look very different to her own. Her first solo Haute Couture collection, was breathtaking. Set in the luxurious library of Madame Chanel, the show was everything you would expect from Chanel. Signature fabrics of tweed, boucle and hound’s-tooth were widely used, and the unbiased colour pallet of black and white was ever present. This season saw splashes of vibrant colour and metallic threads also featured throughout, and garments dazzles with sequins and feathers. The silhouette was unmistakable feminine, featuring waistlines and full skirts. A nod to the original style presented itself in the footwear displayed by the models, with tailoring and structured design showcasing what Chanel is all about. The collections was sleek, elegant, luxurious and sexy. Viard’s star shone bright as she made her debt as the first female creative director since Coco Chanel herself. While we may have lost the grand master in Lagerfeld, the woman who is now in control is nothing short of spectacular!

Another woman who is leading the way in the modern world of fashion is the creative director of Dior, Maria Grazia Churi. Again woman are making themselves heard, with Churi being the first female ever to be in charge at Dior. Churi has been in the rag trade for many years, starting out at Fendi in 1989 before moving onto Valentino. Born in Rome, Italy in 1964, Churi’s mother was a dressmaker, so the world of fashion has been in her blood from day one. Completing her studies in fashion in Rome, the naturally talented Churi has produced some of the greatest fashion moments this decade has ever seen. Joining Dior in July 2016, Churi is known to promote political and social issues through her work. The slogan “We should all be feminists” which dominated Dior’s Ready to Wear show of Spring 2017 is likely to be one of the most recognised and remembered statements made in fashion.

Churi’s most recent work for the Haute Couture show of Fall/Winter 2019/20 was a mix of darkness touched by the beauty of floral. The models entered into an arena that was somewhat gothic and moody, before moving into a space filled with bright floral and springtime vibes. The look was architectural, structured and metallic. Black featured heavily as a colour, with detailing and accent colours also featuring. Lace and net covered some of the models, who dazzled in garments with nipped in waistlines and full skirts. Bare shoulders, belted waists, leather and feathers were standout features on some of the collections boldest pieces. Churi surely made it known that art is fashion, and fashion is art!

In a world that is ever changing, fashion will always play a significant role. As more women designers step out of the shadows and into the limelight, the world of Haute Couture looks incredibly bright. These women are not afraid to walk to the beat of their own drum, but remain respectful to the men who made these fashion labels into the empires we know them as today. I for one cannot wait until the next round of catwalk shows to see what other inspiring and beautiful fashions come from the grand houses of Chanel and Dior.

Love Always, Anastacia Rose xx

 

 

Vintage fashion at it’s finest – Edward Molyneux

For someone who loves fashion and all things about the history of fashion, this next designer is someone who I knew little about. Surprising, since my favourite eras in fashion are The Jazz Age and The Golden Age, which this designer fits right into. It’s slightly embarrassing that I have only recently discovered the true talent and beauty of British born designer Edward Molyneux, but I’m so glad I did. I have seen many of his pieces exhibited in shows I have been to, but never knew anything about the man behind them all. It was difficult researching this genius of design as many of my vintage fashion books glazed over him as a designer. But I kept digging and found some stunning images and information on his work. So if you’re keen to know more about another grand couturier from the 1920’s, then join me on this next stylish instalment on Anastacia Rose Blog!

Captain Edward Molyneux was born in London on 5^th September 1891 as was of Irish decent. The story of his early childhood remains much untold. When he was sixteen, Molyneux dropped out of school after the death of his father, to begin working to support himself and his mother. Molyneux had a keen interest in painting, and it was this form of art that he initially pursued. Working as a sketch artist, Molyneux entered a competition with a sketch of an evening dress. He won, and his career in fashion was born. This award introduced Molyneux to the prominent and influential Lady Duff Gordon, who hired Molyneux to work for her in her English fashion house Lucile. Here Molyneux nurtured and crafted his own talents and styles, and became a leader in the style game.

After gaining such valuable experience and knowledge, Molyneux branched out on his own, and established his own house in 1919 in Paris, with a philosophy based on seamless elegance. The designers’ success rose quickly in the nineteen twenties, with women from all walks of life recognising his name. From the aristocratic women of wealth and heritage, to the café society flappers, Molyneux mixed with them all, and was happy to dress any woman who was tall and slender. His creations were not showy, with emphasis placed on the cut and fabric that was used rather than embellishments. His designs were not only chic but also wearable, with a refined elegance that capsulated the Jazz Age. When the decade evolved into the 1930’s, Molyneux adopted the bias cut, with his sheath gowns a display of sculptural simplicity. One of his most recognised outfits was that of a backless gown, bias cut, and finished off with a fur draped effortlessly over the models shoulders.

The 1930’s saw Molyneux cross paths with some famous clientele, which only emphasised his position in the world of fashion. He designed costumes for the stage during this decade, and also the wedding gown and trousseau for Princess Marina of Greece in 1934. The colour pallet in which Molyneux dabbled was most simplistic, with black, navy, grey and beige featuring heavily in all his collections throughout time. Also in the 1930’s, Molyneux displayed luxurious coats made of velvet, and was one designer who adopted the matching dress and coat look of the era. Towards the end of the decade, Molyneux started to experiment with changing the silhouette of the waist, making it narrower and more fitted to the models own features. This is a look that was largely successful during the 1940’s thanks to Dior’s “New Look”. With the radiant success of his House, Molyneux was able to diversify and introduced to his company a line of furs, lingerie, millinery and perfume. All were a success.

With the looming threat of a Second World War, Molyneux escaped Paris for London. Here he was conscripted into the British Army, where he served as an infantry captain. He served his time in the army, and suffered health issues as a result. He lost the vision in one of his eyes. Post war, Molyneux returned to Paris to try and pick up where he left off. Unfortunately due to his ailing health he could not return to the greatness that he had been known for. In 1950, Molyneux retired to Jamaica, and watched the world of fashion flourish in a new direction. Some years later, in 1965, Molyneux flirted with the idea of making a comeback. For a brief time he came out of retirement, but much had changed in the realm of fashion and Molyneux no longer had the passion or the energy to reinvent himself.

At the age of eighty three, Edward Molyneux passed away in 1974. During his time in the luxury world of couture, he achieved greatness. His designs have stood the test of time, and now take their place in the history of fashion. They are inspiring, elegant, timeless and breathtaking in their simplicity. A sketch artist, war veteran and fashion design. It’s a resume that reads well and honours the success of this great man. At a time when the French largely dominated the runway, this quiet British achiever well and truly left his mark. You just have to search a little deeper to find him, that’s all!

Love Always, Anastacia Rose xx

“Comme des Garcons is a gift to oneself, not something to appeal or to attract the opposite sex” – Rei Kawakubo

So it’s pretty obvious if you’ve been reading along with my blogs, that I love vintage fashion. The greats of Dior, Chanel, Balenciaga, Vionnet and Poiret, are all influencers on my own tastes in fashion. I fall in love with master tailoring, sublime natural fabrics, handmade garments and embellishments, and anything that comes under the umbrella of chic, classic and feminine. My style icons are Audrey Hepburn, Grace Kelly, Jackie O and Sophia Loren. I love vintage films starring Marilyn Monroe, and am a sucker for classic novels by F Scott Fitzgerald. So when researching who I would dedicate my next blog to, it came as a surprise to me, as I’m sure it will be to you, that I’ve chosen to write about prominent Japanese designer Rei Kawakubo and her eponymous label Comme des Garcons. I decided to delve into this world of contemporary fashion and design as it’s not one that I’m accustom too, but should probably know more about. It’s been interesting to learn about the influence of Japan in fashion, and somewhat eye opening to discover all the imaginary things that Kawakubo has achieved in her career. So if you’re keen to know more about this brand and the statement it has made on modern fashion, then join me on this colourful and creative journey.

The label first gained cult following when it debuted at Paris Fashion Week in 1981. It was different to anything the Paris runways had seen before, and gave a whole new direction on eighties fashions. The label was founded and is still run by Japanese innovator Rei Kawakubo. Kawakubo was born in Tokyo in 1942, and never formally trained in fashion. Studying fine art and literature at Keio University in Tokyo, Kawakubo first went into the advertising industry before finding her niche in fashion. She launched her label in Japan in 1973 and soon engaged a large following for her brand at home. Introducing a menswear line a few years later, Comme des Garcons became greatly successful in its home land. When invited to show in that 1981 fashion week in Paris, the world was greeted with a significant Japanese influence. Showcasing monochrome colours, random elastication, irregular hemlines and crinkled surfaces, Paris was awestruck at this new take on fashion. Dubbed “Oblique Chic” by Vogue, Comme des Garcons had stamped its name all over the runway.

When researching this blog, it became obvious early on that Kawakubo walked to the beat of her own drum. Becoming known for innovative and unconventional pattern cutting, the collections which Kawakubo released were always intriguing and curious. Some of the well know ensembles that bear the Comme des Garcons label feature random ruching, asymmetric seams, unfinished edges and shapeless silhouettes. The brand has an unorthodox appeal, but is greatly accepted by many. The garments are designed and made in Japan, with the flagship store located in Aoyama, Tokyo’s high fashion district. Some of the labels main lines are still handmade, hence their production still being based in Japan. This aspect of luxury handmade goods is reflected in the high price tag, but guaranteed in the quality of craftsmanship that will outlast most other garments produced these days. Other Comme des Garcons boutiques are located in Melbourne, Manila, Beijing and Seoul.

The mass appeal of Comme des Garcons has allowed the brand to grow to enormous stature. In 2011 it was estimated to employ eight hundred staff, and is now reported to turn over $280 million dollars per year. Kawakubo and her brand have since established many other lines that come under the Comme des Garcons family. There is approximately twenty other lines, including Noir, Homme, Shirt (mainly producing shirts), Sport and Black. A street wear line was also introduced and is sold in market based department stores worldwide. Dover Street Market was first established in London, and was home to the diffusion line ‘Play’. This collection is factory produced to reduce costs and to keep up with the demands of ready to wear street culture. Comme des Garcons has also nurtured many collaborations over the years, including works with Nike, Levi’s, Louis Vuitton and H&M. Celebrity followings are large as well, and include Ellen, Kanye, Lady Gaga, Bjork and the late and great Karl Lagerfeld.

Like many other fashion houses of the time, Comme des Garcons also has a range of fragrance. Being agendered, the perfumes are somewhat unconventional, listing ingredients such as oxygen, metal, sand dunes, nail polish and burnt rubber. Many of the designs from Kawakubo also represent the mix of genders, fusing together masculine tailoring with feminine corsets and flowers. Certainly a modern take on this ever changing and evolving world we live in.

In 2017, the Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York paid tribute to the contribution Kawakubo has made to the fashion industry. With an exhibition displaying some 150 ensembles, the white maze like curation was a stunning success. Largely recognised now in fashion circles by the heart shaped logo with two eyes, Comme des Garcons continues to surprise and elevate the world of fashion. From predominantly black and distressed designs to their perplexing cuts and minimalist displays, Comme des Garcons has inevitably established its place among fashions most elite brands and designers. Whilst it may not be my cup of tea, I can certainly pay credit where it is due, and Rei Kawakubo is a fashion master.

Love Always, Anastacia Rose xx

 

“To me, clothing is a form of self-expression – There are hints about who you are in what you wear” – Marc Jacobs

If you’re looking for a designer that’s got uber amounts of flair, passion for the dream, a willingness to never give up, and can constantly invent styles and silhouettes that are super fresh, then you should check out Marc Jacobs! The boy from New York City who had a dream of a fashion empire and made it all came true, Marc Jacobs has certainly found his place amongst other elite names of the industry. Recent collections have shone with colour, texture, attitude and sass. The Marc Jacobs label seems set to remain a constant in this every changing world.

Born and raised in New York City, Marc Jacobs has never been your typical American boy. Born on April 9^th, 1963, Jacobs grew up with the love and affection of both his parents, until at only 7 years old, Jacobs father tragically passed away. After such heartbreak, his mother did not cope well, and had a string of failed marriages in the years to come. This involved Jacobs and his siblings moving around a lot, and it wasn’t until Jacobs decided to move in with his paternal Grandmother, that finally as a teenager the boy had some stability. Living on the Upper West Side of Manhattan would have been an eye opening experience during the seventies and eighties, and it was while living here that Jacobs enjoyed much freedom and frivolity. Jacobs Grandmother was very supportive and nurturing of her grandson’s talents, and at fifteen years old, Jacobs started working in an upmarket fashion boutique. He was a natural in the industry and it was obvious from here that his career was in fashion.

In the years following, Jacobs enrolled at the prestigious Parsons School of Design in New York City, and was able to showcase his creativity and talent. He was strongly supported the whole way by his Grandmother, and when Jacobs graduated in 1984, did so with many accolades to his name. A few years later, and a few collections under his belt, Jacobs was employed as the head women’s wear designer at Perry Ellis. He released a couple of collections for Ellis, but in 1993 when he launched a look focused on grunge that was not well received by the label, Jacobs decided it was time to go solo.

It didn’t take long before the Marc Jacobs label proved to be a success, and other fashion houses stood up and took notice. Supermodels Naomi Campbell and Linda Evangelista showed their support towards Jacobs by walking in his shows for free. A few years later, and the luxury brand Louis Vuitton came knocking. Jacobs was signed up as creative director of the brand, and he released the house’s first ever ready to wear line. This new role, as well as keeping his own label up and running, proved stressful and dangerous for Jacobs. He turned to drugs to try and get himself through this period, and after battling with an addiction for a couple years, checking himself into rehab in 1999.

His time at Louis Vuitton was however successful. In ten years he turned the label from mainly being known for its luxury luggage goods, into a powerhouse for modern fashionistas. During this time Jacobs also worked tirelessly on his own brand, launching Marc by Marc Jacobs in 2001. His label now consists of three lines in total, two for adults and one for children, as well as fragrance, cosmetics, accessories, books, stationary and eyewear. Seeing the success of the Marc Jacobs empire, LVMH bought a stake in the label.

In 2010, Jacobs and his partner Lorenzo Martone, married in St Barts. In 2012, Jacobs was honoured with an exhibition of his work, which was held in Paris and lasted for six months. He is reported as saying this was a very emotional time for him. After sixteen years at the head of Louis Vuitton, in 2013 Jacobs left his post. He had succeeded in positioning the brand amongst fashions elite, and made it recognisable the world over. Jacobs has been honoured for his contribution towards fashion many times over, receiving numerous accolades from the Council of Fashion Designers of America.

Known as the “Boy Wonder” to some in the industry, Marc Jacobs has certainly made his mark. From his debut on the runway with a collection of sweaters, Jacobs has reached heightened success in his relatively short career. Who knows what’s next for this genius designer, but the world shall be waiting for him.

Love Always, Anastacia Rose xx

“Trendy is the last stage before Tacky” – Karl Lagerfeld

One of the most recognised faces in the fashion industry would have to be that of the man with the long white hair, black sunglasses and starched white collar. Known the world over, Karl Lagerfeld has sustained himself and his brand as a leader in high fashion. He has been in the industry for decades, and continues to break ground through his innovative designs, bold choices and daring outcomes. Heading up not only his own label, but many other prestigious brands over the years like Chanel, Fendi and Chloe, Lagerfeld is a name everyone who’s anyone loves to talk about.

Mystery has shroud the early life of Lagerfeld over the years, mainly because the man himself has kept an air of intrigue. Believed to be born on the 10^th September 1933 in Hamburg, Germany, Karl Otto Lagerfeld lived an affluent life with his two parents, one sister and one half-sister. His father bought wealth to the family when he introduced condensed milk to Germany (I suppose someone had to do it!), and the family flourished from the profits made. His mother was a violinist, and the household was full of intellectual conversation and religious philosophy. When the reign of Hitler took hold during the Second World War, Lagerfeld and his family moved to rural Germany and were greatly protected from all the horrors of the Nazis. Lagerfeld has claimed that it wasn’t until later in life that he truly understood the pain and suffering inflicted on many during this time.

At the conclusion on the War, the Lagerfeld family returned to Hamburg, and Karl was finally able to immerse himself into the world of high fashion. It was something that he had been inclined to since childhood, cutting pictures out of fashion magazines and keeping them for himself. At only fourteen, with the blessing of his parents, he moved to Paris. His passion was truly nurtured during this time, and Lagerfeld continued to draw and sketch as much and as often as he could. Two years later, he won a competition with his designs for a coat, and the world of fashion was suddenly beckoning. It was during this early time in Paris that Lagerfeld met and befriended fellow design ingénue Yves Saint Laurent. Some big names in French couture began to recognise the talent Lagerfeld naturally possessed, and it was Pierre Balmain in 1955 who first hired him as a junior assistant. Lagerfeld soon proved his worth, and began to apprentice for Balmain. He stayed here for three years. Lagerfeld soon decided to venture out on his own, and in 1961, launched his own label. The Karl Lagerfeld brand is still going strong today, even after he sold it to Tommy Hilfiger in 2005, Lagerfeld still maintains full creative direction.

Other iconic fashion houses that Lagerfeld has been in charge of include Chloe, Fendi and unmistakably Chanel. He joined Fendi in 1967, and the following decade began his time at Chloe. But possibly the most renowned work that Lagerfeld has done is during his time is at Chanel. Relaunching the label in the 1980’s, Lagerfeld became a huge star. He returned Chanel to the top of the fashion empire with his ready to wear line, and has ensured the success of the French label.

During his time at Chanel, Lagerfeld has continued to grow the brand through innovation and risk taking. While he continually pays homage to the great Coco through the use of tweed jackets and skirts, Lagerfeld has bought this staple into the modern world by using colour and embellishments. He has also revived the trend by pairing it with sneakers instead of stilettos. The use of colour is something that the Chanel label had not seen much of until Lagerfeld took over, and he continues to produce garments in an assortment of hues depending on what trends he chooses for the season. Florals are another iconic look that Lagerfeld uses at Chanel, creating a somewhat romantic air to his collections. An unmistakable embellishment of a modern Chanel outfit would have to be the use of pearls, diamonds and chains. Lagerfeld uses these notions to accessories his couture outfits, as well as shoes, handbags and jewellery. The couture shows which Chanel take part in every fashion week are nothing short of epic. The scale of the production is something out of this world, with Lagerfeld dreaming up runway shows that to anyone else would seem impossible. Do yourself a favour and watch some of the recent Chanel productions, you will not be disappointed!

In recent times, Lagerfeld has turned his hand to photography and to film and costume design. He has designed the costumes for stars such as Madonna and Kylie on some of their recent tours. Lagerfeld has also collaborated with the department store Macy’s to create a capsule collection in 2011. Known as the man who continues to reinvent fashion and couture, Karl Lagerfeld isn’t going anywhere, anytime soon. He continues to amaze us all with his Avant garde designs, breathtaking shows, and innovative style. He is bold, he is brave and he is truly a gift to the world of fashion. Lagerfeld is a name that will go done in fashion history as one of the best!

Love Always, Anastacia Rose xx

The most wonderful time of the year!

So anyone who knows me well, or has known me for a long time, will know how much I love Christmas. For me, it truly is the most wonderful time of the year. Christmas day has been a significant day in my family for as long as I can remember. It’s a time when we all come together, put our differences aside and enjoy each other’s company. It’s a time when we all laugh together, we cry together, we eat and drink too much together, and we just be together. Many families celebrate in different ways, with different traditions, but the common factor is family spending time together. So what is it about the festive season that inspires so much joy for so many?

As children we were spoilt rotten by all our family members with an abundance of gifts. It was all about the presents, who got what and how come he got more than me?! It was about catching up with cousins, playing with our new toys, eating chocolate before breakfast, and trying to figure out how Santa got into the house when we didn’t have a chimney. He has magic dust by the way for those of you still wondering! Some of the greatest memories I have about Christmas past, are looking at all the houses decorated to the nines with Christmas lights. It was checking out everyone else’s Christmas trees and maybe, just maybe, there might be a gift with my name on it underneath. Christmas was also learning that I didn’t like fruit cake, but love Christmas pudding, go figure!! But as the years ticked by, and Christmas came around quicker each time, the true meaning came to light.

Christmas isn’t just about that one day in December, but it’s so much more. It’s no longer about how many presents we each get, although it’s a pretty magical feeling watching children unwrap theirs’s on Christmas morn. The true spirit of Christmas is fabulous. It’s about love, it’s about light, it’s about being grateful, it’s about kindness, it’s about happiness and it’s about creating memories. The spirit of Christmas lives within us all, although it’s harder for some people to find than others. As much as I still love looking at Christmas lights, putting up all the decorations, wrapping presents (yes, I love to wrap gifts!) and eating way too much, I’ve learnt to be thankful for everything I have. Christmas time makes me reflect on everything that’s happened throughout the year. Some of it’s not always good, but then life is never perfect.

So here’s a few things that I will be reflecting on this festive season……

Love. The love that I have for other people, family and friends. The love that people give me, and the love that has been taken away from me.

Joy. The joy that I’m blessed to have every time I see the gorgeous smiling faces of my two precious nieces.

Kindness. The kindness that has been shown towards me throughout this year during difficult times. And how I should be kinder to others around me.

Happiness. Learning to be happy with what I have, who I am and what I can give.

Wealth. Realising that being rich is not a financial thing, but about the wealth of all of the things above.

Friendship. Being grateful for the few amazing friends I have in my life, who get me no matter what and who will always have my back.

Laughter. It truly is the best medicine and we should all have more of it in our lives.

This festive season I’m bound to drink a few too many gins, eat more chocolate that I should and spend too much money. But what the hell!! You only live once so it’s worth doing well. I hope this Christmas you are able to experience some of the things I’ve mentioned above. I hope that you create memories to last a lifetime. I hope that you give love and feel love like you’re worthy of. I hope that you get Christmas carols stuck in your head. I hope that you dress on point and look fly as hell walking around your nans kitchen. I hope that your beverage of choice is on sale so you can stock up. And I hope that you discover the true spirit of Christmas, whatever that may be for you.

Love Always and Merry Christmas, Anastacia Rose xx

 

Expectations … Fuck ‘em!!

So a few months ago I wrote a blog that was equally the easiest and hardest thing I’ve ever written. It was easy because it came from the heart, it was about me and my experiences. It was the hardest thing I’ve ever written also because it was about me, and I was exposing myself and my thoughts and feelings to everyone. I was unsure if I would ever publish the blog, but the more I thought about it and the more I read over it, I loved it, and wanted to share it. So I did. And what happened? What reaction did I get? Nothing! That’s right, absolutely nothing. No walls came crashing in upon me, no bombs went off and no one died. Nothing bad at all happened. My fears about writing about myself and my own experiences went out the window, because nothing happened. In fact, no one said anything, good or bad! There was no “great read”, “loved it”, “thanks for being so open”. There was not even a recognition from those friends or family members that may have read it. So maybe they didn’t read it after all, and just said they did! Or maybe they don’t actually give a shit, or they think I’m full of shit and wish I’d just shut up!! Either way, nothing happened. Moral to this story, don’t let the fear of expectations stop you from doing something, because most of the time, people don’t give a shit what you do.

I’ve been trying to come up with blog content for the last few weeks now, but everything I start to write just doesn’t feel right. I get distracted, have lost interest and haven’t been passionate about any of it. So I’ve decided to turn my hand to penning another blog that’s straight from the heart, no research needed! I’ve been thinking a lot lately about expectations and what I really want. It’s something that’s come up a few times recently, at work, in my personal life, and in my struggles with anxiety. Why is it that we place so much pressure on ourselves to achieve so much? It’s like we’re programmed to not be satisfied and grateful for what we’ve got. Constantly comparing ourselves to other women, friends and family members who are at different stages in life. There’s an urge to feel like we’ve achieved greatness, like we’re going to make the world a better place by doing something spectacular. Why can’t we just be grateful for what we have here and now? Take a moment to think about all the wonderful things you have in life at this very moment and just smile.

Earlier this year I learnt the importance of taking time for myself with a breath and a pause. Its helped me immensely! At any point during the day when things start to get overwhelming, it gets crazy busy at work, you feel like there’s not enough hours in the day to get things done. Just stop. Take a moment for yourself, and breath. Big belly breaths. And when you let it out, just smile. So simple and so effective, you can feel the tension in your body begin to release immediately. It’s something that I do every day, and it truly works wonders. Taking time for yourself doesn’t have to be any sort of grand event. Something simple like half an hour to read a book, listen to some tunes, have a coffee in the sunshine, exercise, write about your feeling and thoughts, or a quiet vino on the terrace after a long day at the office. It’s important that we do these things for ourselves to ensure we have good health and happy minds.

On my own personal journey of self-discovery this year I’ve learnt a lot about myself, and what I need. I’ve come to accept that those hopes and dreams I had at fifteen are probably not going to happen, but that’s okay. Because now in my early thirties, I have a whole new set of hopes and dreams that actually sound a lot more appealing! No longer are they things like being famous, being filthy rich, and having a drop dead gorgeous husband, a mansion, and my own business. Now its things like good health, simple happiness and fabulous friendships that are the dream. It’s about being grateful for what I have now, appreciation for the amazing people in my life and trying my hardest to stay in a positive state of mind. I know it all sounds a bit cliché and like a lot of bullshit, but it is real. It’s these things in life and not the expectations I had on myself half a lifetime ago that are important.

And getting back to expectations … Fuck ‘em!! Placing expectations on someone or something is the biggest waste of emotional time and wellbeing you could have. So stop doing it! Stop listening to what other people think you should or should not be doing. Live your life the way you want to live it. Yes there is a time and place when expectations are appropriate, like task based performance at work, or when purchasing a product or service, but not placed on your personal self by someone else. If you’ve got people in your life who are constantly doing this to you, then I’m sorry but tell them to fuck off! You’re better off without them. And stop being so hard on yourself. It doesn’t make things any easier, it only makes you feel worse. Lighten up a little bit, have some fun, don’t stress if you don’t get the floor moped this week, you can do it next week instead. The world is not going to end if you cut yourself some slack. Remember that vino on the terrace, go have one now!

Being the age I currently am, and I’m proud to say that’s thirty two, I have none of the things in my life that society expected of me. I have no husband, no partner even (but I may have a cheeky lover!). I have no kids, no dogs, but I do have a stylish goldfish called Gwendolyn! I have no mortgage, I rent. But I also have no debt, which is a plus! I didn’t expect that my life would be in this place at this time, but here I am. And I’ve accepted it. Finally!! I genuinely do not care what others think of me now. You don’t like my style, my sass, my “get the fuck out of my way” attitude. That’s your problem. You can accept me for who I am, or you can move on. Don’t judge me, or anybody else, for the way they chose to live their life. Just accept them for who they are. We as women need to start supporting each other instead of tearing each other down. Don’t scoff at another woman’s success. Don’t put her down because you think she should be doing something else. Don’t make excuses. And stop whinging! Stop bitching as well! Do not judge someone else until you’ve walked a mile in their shoes. Great advice from whoever came up with that quote!

So where to from here? I have absolutely no idea. But here’s a few things I do know. It’s time to accept. It’s time to be brave. It’s time to be bold and go after what I want. It’s time to start sharing my struggles and let people in. It’s okay to ask for help. In fact, it’s the best thing you can ever do for yourself. We can’t be Superwoman ever day!! It’s okay to speak my mind. And it’s more than okay to live my life the way I chose to. If I want to spend $1600 on a pair of Jimmy Choo’s, you better believe I’m going to! Life is what you make of it. So make it a damn good one. We only get one shot, and it’s way too short! So live a fuck yes life! Always dress like it’s the best day of your life. Be a flamingo in a flock of pigeons. Love like you’ve never been hurt before, and know that it’s okay to be a glowstick. Sometimes we have to break before we shine!

Love Always, Anastacia Rose xx

 

“Fashion is not frivolous. It is part of being alive today” – Mary Quant

One of the most fun and flirtatious eras in fashion history would have to be the Swinging Sixties. It was an era of change and revolution not only for social trends, lifestyles and politics, but for women’s rights both in and out of the home. More women than ever were entering the paid workforce, and taking control of their lives through the use of contraception. It was an age of innovation. Carnaby Street was the place to be seen in London, and Beatnik fashions were popping up all over Europe and America. Haute Couture houses that had previously dominated the scene were beginning to slow down, with consumers preferring a much more relaxed and easily accessible way of dressing. Miniskirts, culottes, go-go boots, PVC hotpants, and drainpipe denim from Levi Strauss all exploded onto the scene. And there was one British entrepreneur who took it all in her stride. Introducing, Mary Quant!

Mary Quant was one of the biggest and most influential designers in sixties fashions. Her use of colour, innovative fabrics and daring designs became not only her trademark, but that of the era as well. Born on the 11^th February 1930 in Blackheath London, Quant grew up in a modest household with her educationalist parents. Of Welsh heritage, Quant always had an inkling towards fashion and design, however her parents forbade her to study in this field. Instead she was allowed to study illustration, and did so at Goldsmiths College in London. It was while she was studying that she met her future husband, and aristocratic man whom she married in 1953. The couple later went on to have one child, Orlando, in 1970.

At the completion of her university course, Quant took on an apprenticeship with high end milliner Erik in London. Here she was able to use her creative skill set, with her passion for design and fun fashions growing even more. In 1955 her husband purchased a store on Kings Road in London, and together the couple set up their first store called Bazaar. It stocked many of the current fashion trends of the era, with an increasing audience crying out for more. After Quant began to receive recognition and enquiries about her own clothing that she wore in the store, she decided that she would start making some of the garments herself, adding her own personality to everything she touched.

It wasn’t long until Quant had cornered the market. Her designs were easy, youthful and simple, clothing you could actually move in. She worked in the store by day, and at night took classes on cutting. Shopping at Bazaar was a totally different experience for those who dared to be so bold. Loud music, free drinks and late opening hours was something that attracted many of the ‘Chelsea Set’ during the sixties. Quant used a method of production in the early years known as hand to mouth. By day she would sell her clothes and make a profit, and then by night she would use that profit to purchase more fabric and produce new garments by morning. It was an exhausting way to live, but ensured that Quant was always ahead of the pack with new designs stocking the racks daily. By 1966, the business had grown so much that Quant was now employing manufactures to do this work for her. She had eighteen in total.

Being innovative and opinionated, it’s no surprise that Quant is credited with developing one of the biggest fashion items of all time. The miniskirt was born in the Swinging Sixties, and has remained a constant in fashion in one way or another every decade to follow. Out went the modest knee length hemlines of the fifties, and in came this daring short length. Often paired with bright coloured tights during the freezing British winters, the miniskirt became largely popular. Iconic sixties model Twiggy also help to grow the acceptance of the style, and it soon became a staple of any young, modernist fashionista. Another innovation from Quant was the cheeky and seductive hotpants. Remaining popular into the early 1970’s the hotpant was another design element that struck the fashion world head on! The use of PVC as a fabric also gave Quant a point of difference in her designs, using it for clothing and footwear.

Known for playing with scale and proportion in her designs, Quant also drew inspiration from the Victorian era. She designed garments that replicated Victorian undergarments, such as knickerbockers, but made them from modern fabrics, and promoted them as outerwear. Dancers, musicians and almost anyone from the arts sector in some way influenced Quant and her designs. Over the years, Bazaar grew to entail three stores in London. In 1962, Quant signed up for one of the biggest deals she ever completed, with American department store JC Penney. She also diversified her brand further in the 1970’s, introducing swimwear, hosiery, jewellery, make up and skin care. Interior design was also a side business, with linens, carpets, paint and wallpaper all part of it. A diffusion line of fashion also arose in the seventies called Ginger Group.

The success of Mary Quant can never be doubted. While still caught up in the heat of it all, in 1966 she was awarded an OBE for her contribution to the industry. In 1988, she worked with car manufacturer Mini to design the interior of their famous little car. And in 2015, Mary Quant became a Dame, recognised furthermore for her everlasting impact of the history of fashion. The Swinging Sixties would not have been as colourful, bright, cheeky or empowering as they were had it not been for Mary Quant!

Love Always, Anastacia Rose xx

“It is what a woman leaves off, not what she puts on, that gives her cachet” – Paul Poiret

If you are looking for an icon of nineteen twenties fashion, then you will absolutely cross paths with the name Poiret. Known in the industry for cultivating some of the biggest and most sensational changes to women’s fashion, Poiret was a modernist in its first and purest form. He dominated the fashion scene in Paris and abroad from the mid 1900’s until he closed his House at the end of the twenties. He is credited with giving women more freedom in their fashions, and introduced colour, opulence and international flavours to his designs. What a time it would have been to be alive!

Paul Poiret is one of the greatest couturiers that France ever produced. Born in April 1879, he lived on both sides of luxury and poverty in his 65 years. His father was a cloth merchant, and when Poiret was old enough to work, sent him to apprentice in an umbrella factory. Whilst working in the factory, Poiret would collect the scraps of silk from the cutting room floor, and fashion them into outfits for his sister’s dolls. He had a knack for sketching and loved to design, and began to take a portfolio of his work around to couture houses in Paris. He sold many of his designs and then in 1896, was hired by Jacques Doucet. Here Poiret began to nurture his skills of design, and learnt many new techniques from the great couturier. Poiret then moved onto the House of Worth, where his flamboyant designs were too much for this classic fashion brand and clientele.

Finally in 1903, Poiret open his own House where he could be as creative and Avant Garde as he pleased. Poiret not only established himself in women’s clothing, but also as a great business man. He introduced things previously not seen or heard of by fashion designers, and became an entrepreneur before we even knew the word existed. He became known for lavish window displays of his latest creations, and threw some of the most sensational parties of the time. He opened his home, a mansion in Paris, and invited everyone who was on society’s it list. Poiret used his muse and wife to showcase his latest designs at these parties, with no expense spared. Think Gatsby, and that’s the kind of soiree that Poiret was known for giving!

There are some notable developments in fashion history which we can thank Poiret for. One of the best known innovations was that of freeing women from their corsets. Poiret changed the silhouette of fashion dramatically when he started to use draping techniques and free flowing fabrics. No longer did women’s busts ooze over the top, but a much more flat and comfortable style was adopted. The empire line was a style that Poiret favoured, raising the waist line to just below the bust, and allowing the fabric to be fluid from this point on. Fabrics such as muslin, lightweight silk and satin, and tulle were all used, and a vibrant colour pallet was introduced.

A lot of the inspiration for Poiret’s designs came from oriental influences. The use of colour and pattern was inspiring to Poiret, and he became known for his kimono coats when he first opened his House. Poiret travelled to many places to draw further on his inspiration, and we began to see tassels, feathers, Batik, Persian and ropes of pearls all come through in his work. Design innovations such as the hobble skirt, a skirt with a very narrow hem which significantly impeded the wearing from walking, was another of Poiret’s creations. Harem pants are another staple of Poiret, which are a baggy trouser cinched in at the ankle. As you can imagine, women did not wear trousers in the early twentieth century, so Poiret created a frenzy with his new ‘Style Sultane’ silhouette. The ‘Lampshade’ tunic also came from the House of Poiret, which as the name suggests, was a tunic with a wide hem line encasing a wire structure to give it more definition and make the shape more dramatic. Poiret also drew inspiration from the Ballet Russes, and frequently used draping in his work. This draping technique lead his designs to herald a somewhat Hellenic influence, which saw a departure from the traditional tailoring and patternmaking from couturiers before.

In 1911, Poiret further established his brand with the introduction of a fragrance. He was the first French couturier to do so. The same year, he also developed a home décor division, and the Poiret brand started to become known as a whole lifestyle, not just something affluent women could wear, but something they could also decorate their homes with.   The lavish and luxurious lifestyle that Poiret, his wife and five children had become accustom to, started to slow down at the beginning of the First World War. Like many French men, Poiret had to serve for his country, and as a result, his fashion empire had to close. Upon re-entering the trade in 1919, Poiret struck difficulties, and found rivals in the likes of Chanel. While Chanel was establishing herself as another great French couturier, Poiret was unable to keep up. His garments while they had been revolutionary and opulent, were not fine examples of construction. They looked dazzling from afar, but if you got too close, you could see the flaws. Women were starting to become accustom to not only great design, but fine sewing and finishing. Poiret sadly never regained his place at the top of the scene, and after struggling for a few years, closed his doors in 1929. What was left of his stock was sold off as rags.

Paul Poiret lived out the remained of his live on a much more discreet level than he had previously. On the verge of poverty, having lost everything, Poiret died in 1944, aged sixty five. By the time of his death, most in the fashion world had forgotten all about him and the tremendous things he contributed when at the top of his game. His close friend, Elsa Schiaparelli, was the one who paid for his burial service. It took some years before the industry finaly recognised the achievements of Poiret, and since then, many exhibitions have been held in his honour. Being the first designer to publish a look book, create a logo and dive into costume design as well, Poiret really was an innovator.

After ninety years lying dormant, the Poiret brand has been revived by Beijing born designer Yiqing Yin, and will showcase its first collection for Fall 2018. It seems that fashion will always remain attached to its past! For a man that stabilised the French Couture industry, Poiret’s legacy will live on. Not only a designer, but a poet, a painter, a musician and a well-travelled individual, Paul Poiret and his quirky creations will forever hold their place in the history of fashion.

Love Always, Anastacia Rose xx

I am brave, I am bruised, this is who I’m meant to be …This is me!

So this next blog is going to take a slightly different approach than most of my previous ones. Usually I’m telling you all about my favourite designers, different eras in fashion history, places that are iconic or people who inspire me. But today I feel like I should tell you a bit more about myself and the person I’ve become along this journey. I’ve previously given snippets of my path in fashion and how I got to where I am, but something inside me says that I should delve deeper and give more. So here goes! Stick with me on this one if you can, I’ll try and keep it fun and as fashionable as possible!

Discovering that I had a love and talent for fashion came as a surprise to me, as it did too many others I’m sure. I think I was about 15, and it was the first time I’d ever sat in front of a sewing machine. I had seen my mother sew for my brother and me as a child, but had no interest in it what so ever. It wasn’t something that the kids at school considered cool, so of course I was never going to be honest and say that I actually liked it when I first started. But I soon discovered that I was essentially pretty good at it, and started receiving recognition for the few items of clothing I began to whip up on the machine. It grew for here and I soon discovered that apparently you could make money out of this, so bam!! I was going to enter the rag trade! By the time my final high school year arrived, I was firm in my knowing that I was off to university to study fashion and design and start living the dream, or so I thought.

It didn’t take long to figure out there was so much more to it, and it was so competitive. But my years at uni and living in the big smoke were awesome. I learnt so much, developed new skills, found my niche in vintage fashion, and opened my eyes to the big wide world. At times it was scary, I wanted to come home to everyone and everything I knew, but persistence pays off. If you really want something, you’ve just got to go for it. Sacrifices were made, as were some tough decisions, but when my models walked out onto the catwalk at my final year graduation parade, I’d never felt so much excitement, adrenaline and love from all those around me.

And then the real hard work started! Study was a breeze compared to finding a job in the industry. Nobody wants to know you unless you’ve had a few years’ experience, but how do you get experience if no one wants to give you a chance? The one thing I don’t think uni prepared me for was just how tough it was going to be. A qualification on a piece of paper means nothing. You’ve got to prove yourself. I slogged it out in a retail job to begin with before I thought I’d hit the jackpot and landed a job within a local fashion business. Again, no one tells you all the bad stuff that you might encounter, how ruthless people can be, and what it can do to your state of mind. So needless to say that first year out in the industry was tough, the kind of stuff that can break a person, or make you stronger. I’d like to think it was the second option, but I sadly don’t think it was.

After feeling sad and sorry for myself, and being unemployed for six months, my break finally came. I applied for a job out of the Sunday paper, in a small dressmaking and alterations business. I got it! And five years later when I left, I’d worked my way through the business to the top rung. It was basic to start with, altering the suits of wealthy business men, and sewing the hems on new eveningwear purchases. But my role developed, and I was able to introduce a more custom made side to the business, with Spring Racing Carnival our busiest time of year. Like many people do in their jobs, I became stale, and the calling to be closer to my family was stronger than ever.

Ten years after I left my country home town, I made one of the biggest decisions of my life and chose to go back home. The city life had been amazing, so many things to do and see. So many amazing people and opportunities. The nightlife was amazing, the art galleries, the shops, the bars and restaurants were world class. But nothing says home more like family, so back to mine I went. Have I ever regretted it, absolutely not! It was exactly what I needed at that time in my life.

It was here that my journey in fashion kind of stalled for a little while. Country towns like mine don’t really have a need for a now experienced fashionista (unlike Dungatar and Tilly Dunnage)! So a different path I took, again in retail to give myself an income, to save some money and hopefully down the track the alluring lights of the runway would come calling again. Did it happen like this, not so much! I took a break from sewing for a while, and pondered what I really wanted. I’d always had this thing for writing, for putting stuff down on paper. I also had been thinking for a long time about having my own fashion blog, but it seemed way too scary to even start. But just over twelve months ago now start is what I did, and loved it I have! I’m still navigating this whole blogging thing, not entirely sure if I’m doing it right, but then I don’t think there is a right way, just what works for you. I’ve discovered that being brave isn’t something that comes naturally to me, I have to work on it. Why is it when women reach a certain point in their life and they don’t have all the things society expects, that we give ourselves a hard time. F*@# You Society!!

So where am I now? I’m right here, writing this story and not entirely sure if it will ever see the light of day! I’ve been trying to put more time and energy into my blog, to develop it, to let the world know that it exists, and to try and drum up some more business for my small yet hopeful dressmaking atelier that I operate from my home. I work a full time job that has opened many doors for me and helped me to develop my own personal skills in leadership. I’ve made some terrific friends who I know I’ll have for life, and I’ve discovered a new found passion to do what I love.

So what’s the end goal, what’s the dream now? Well I’ve got two! The first would be to get myself a sugar daddy and spend my summers on a yacht in St Tropez! The other slightly more appropriate one, is to be a costume designer to honour my love for vintage fashion. Am I working towards it? Slowly but surely. What else do I want from this thing called life? I want to love, I want to smile every day, I want to surround myself with family and friends. I want to travel the world, sip champagne under the Eifel Tower (again!), own a pair of Jimmy Choo’s and fill my home with books and photographs that I’ve collected along the way. I want those around me to succeed. I want women to feel strong and to be brave, bold and go after what you want. We are all worth it!

I’ll leave you with a quote that I discovered the other day from Apple Inc, and it truly struck a chord with me – “Here’s to the crazy ones. The misfits. The rebels. The troublemakers. The round pegs in the square holes. The ones who see things differently. They’re not fond of rule. And they have no respect for the status quo. You can quote them, disagree with them, glorify or vilify them. About the only thing you can’t do is ignore them. They push the human race forward. And while some may see them as the crazy ones, we see genius. Because the people who are crazy enough to think they can change the world, are the ones who do.”  Let’s all be crazy together!

Love Always, Anastacia Rose xx